Sunday, May 25, 2008

Everest 2008- Summit Story

A 5 am start on the 22nd saw the team leave our Camp 3 tents, on the Lhotse Face, knowing that very night, we would be going for the summit. We were now sniffing supplementary oxygen on a low flow rate, as we continued up the steep icy face and the traversed left across the Yellow Band and up the Geneva Spur onto that famous of Everest landmarks, the South Col. We met a stream of climbers coming down from camp 4, and as we carefully negotiated our way around them on the fixed lines we heard stories of 3 deaths the previous night which, as if we needed it, re-emphasised what dangers lay ahead.

James, my 24 year old tent mate, and I got to Camp 4 on the South Col, around midday, which gave us 9 hours to rest and hydrate before the summit push. As much as we tried, no sleep would come and before we knew it, the 8pm alarm sounded and time to get ready. The 9 pm start replaced the usual 10 pm start, in an attempt to get out ahead of what we had predicted would be a busy summit night. As we popped out our tents at just before 9pm we quickly realised that other teams had had the same idea, with a long line of headtorches already making their way up to the Balcony. James and I had been teamed up with Mingma (going for his 13th Summit) and Tshering Sherpa, and were to lead out the team. Mingma seemed to be on a mission and we quickly started passing all the other teams on the way up to the Balcony. We were joined by David and Pasang and within an hour had passed around 60 climbers topping out on the Balcony in under 3 hours, we were motoring as a usual time would 4-5 hours to this point. It is usual to change oxygen bottles at this point but as we had been so quick we hadn't used a lot of the gas and so continued up the ridge a bit before we changed.

We made good progress up the ridge and were cresting the South Summit at 4am when I started to get a suffocating feeling, like someone was holding a pillow over my face, quite frightening at 28,000ft. A quick diagnosis revealed a frozen up valve on my oxygen mask. With hard blowing, banging and prodding of a knife, the valve was freed and I could breath again and the dizziness that ensued quickly disappeared.

From the South Summit you can see the main summit with only the knife edge ridge and the Hillary step guarding the upper slopes, only around 100 vertical feet still to climb. I started along the ridge but part way along my vision went and I was only able to make out shapes not the best position to be in when you have to climb along an icy trail, only a foot wide in places, with a 12,000ft drop on one side and a 10,000ft on the other. Tshering, at only 19 years old, was brilliant and got me back along the ridge to the South Summit and down a few hundred metres where my vision started to return. He made sure I clipped in properly to the fixed line and got my feet placements verified as we negotiated some steep and very exposed terrain, he truly was a hero and I owe this young man a hell of a lot. Half way between the South Summit and the Balcony my vision returned and I could make own way down. That was just the thing, heart, lungs and legs I was in good shape and felt really strong and was able to cruise down to Camp 4 pretty quickly.

The next day I boosted down to Camp 2 and today made it safely through the icefall, for the last time, down here to basecamp. Despite losing 10 kg I physically felt pretty good and am happy to be safe, however I am gutted to have got so close. I am sure I will get over it in time but at the minute it's a bit sore. I have to realise that without the support of my team mates and sherpas I could have been like one of the 5 climbers that didn't make it down on the day before and the day after our summit day.

I would like to thank all those that have supported my expedition and for all the kind comments and emails I have received. We are swinging out of basecamp tomorrow morning and will be back in the UK next weekend.

Best Wishes
Martin

383 comments:

1 – 200 of 383   Newer›   Newest»
Mum said...

It is lovely to hear from you, personally, that you are safe and well. As you can appreciate, that is what is of paramount importance to us, but we do understand your extreme disappointment at coming so close to your goal. You have had an experience - exhilarating and terrifying - that the rest of us can can only imagine, and in my case am happy to only imagine! I have really enjoyed reading your "book" and look forward to seeing the film! The mornings will be so boring now that I will not be able to log onto your blog to catch the latest update from Everest!
Holly's caterpillars Jack and Craig have morphed into butterflies and are due to be released this week to fend for themselves. Kieran is becoming quite an expert at throwing stones into the sea and will be more than happy to give you a demonstration when you get back.
Have a safe journey back to Khatmandu and then home. We look forward to seeing you next week.
Mum xx

Anonymous said...

Martin

Wishing you a safe journey back to Scotland. your journey has been an amazing one. See you soon.

Take care

Donna x :)

Angela said...

Hey Martin
Glad you got back to Base camp safely. I know (well I don't know as I don't know you but..) I imagine you must be disappointed not to get to the summit but you got further than most people could only dream of. A truly amazing feat!

These are 2 of my favourite quotes i thought were appropriate, hope you like:

What would life be if we had no courage to attempt anything?
Vincent Van Gogh

Courage doesn't always roar. Sometimes courage is the little voice at the end of the day that says I'll try again tomorrow
Mary Anne Radmacher

Well done, stay safe,
Angela :-)

Ian Sives said...

Hi Martin,

Great to hear you got back down in one piece !! I'm sure it's been a life changing experience. I can't imagine how hard it must have been to turn back, being so close, but i'm sure family and friends will tell you that it was the good decision. You've done an amazing achievement getting that far up!! Thank you for the great reading you've given us, following your blog from week to week. I'll be over in Scotland climbing in September, so hopefully you will have recovered enough by then so as I can buy you a pint and you can tell me the stories of everest!!! All the best,

Ian Sives.

Anonymous said...

Absolutely gutted for you Martin, as I'm gertain everyone who knows you will be, but you're safe and well and in the end that's the really important part.
Hope you have a good journey home after winning a certain footbal match
Alan

margot said...

glad you're safe martin - am a friend of Colin Hargreaves and have enjoyed reading your blogs - gutted for you not reaching your ultimate goal, but what an amazing achievement to have done what you did - some of us can only ever read about Everest stories - you have survived one!
well done
Margot

Anonymous said...

I think that I know how gutted you must be Martin. At least you are safe and well. I look forward to seeing you photos sometime and want to hear more about your experiences.
Safe travels home
Bob Kerr

Anonymous said...

Martin,

Am too totally gutted for you, but nothing is worth risking your sight, or indeed your life for. You have achieved so much getting so far, and in all the hard work you put in in preparation. We are all glad to hear you are well and that's the most important thing.

Safe journey back to Sunny Scotland, see you in June.

Carolyn x

ouiman said...

Hi Martin, glad you are safe and well my friend. Hope you aren't too disappointed about losing out. Oh yeah and football aside theres the matter of narrowly missing the summit. As you say you have to think that you are lucky to be alive old chap and at the end of the day you got to do something that very few others manage. Will come down to see you when you get home and when you have a spare evenin. I know you will be mega busy on return but let me know when you are free would be magic to catch up and will defo have a few cold ones waiting for you champ. By the way without kidding, we all think you are a hero in the Horne household. Take care amigo lots of love from us all here in sunny Scotland.

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